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Needed to get going on the wood clock I'm planning to give to the wife for Xmas... times running out Finally making some progress, and it is pretty neatly designed with two hypocycloid mechanisms to move the hour hand instead of a gear reduction:




The design is by Derek Hugger (http://www.derekhugger.com/), and I'm pretty happy with the plans I purchased, figured it was worth giving him a plug here. This was the first I had gotten the parts together. Still some cleanup sanding and adjusting to do, but no major issues making it fit together without binding. All parts are 1/8" to 1/2" baltic ply.


I'd previously completed this kinetic sculpture designed by D Hugger as well.



regards,
Eric

very nice

Now we know what the mystery wooden part and gears in your Profile Probing post was.

Tweakie.

eabrust, it looks amazing!

I just wonder about my Bosch 1617EVSPK router I've got recently. It's totally for wooden details and everything else ( found here: https://www.woodroutersreviews.com/ ). But, would it be okay for wooden clock like you've done? Or what kinda tools have you been using, can you share some info?

Hi Albert,

The bulk of parts are 1/4 to 1/2" ply, which I did w/ the cnc router. For the design/plans I used from D Hugger, I think the design would have allowed profiling of the teeth with a 1/4" bit, but I did it all w/ 1/8 to save tool changes, as some of the spot faces/pockets were smaller than a 1/4" bit could do. The rest of the work requires several different sizes of drill bits. There was really nothing fancy or hard involved. Just some planning on where to leave tabs to hold parts, etc. I should also mention I used tabs in addition to a vac table, as vacuum alone couldn't hold all parts, and I did have a few 're-do's' due to part movement, etc.

I'm a fan of whiteside router bits, but brand isn't as important as style of bit for what you're doing. Ie, use a downcut, or at least a compression bit for plywood like this.

There was a fair bit of 1/8" ply parts to, I did those with laser cutter, but certainly they are all doable w/ a router if you have some sort of vac table arrangement to hold the parts down.

To give an ideal of the ops/bits involved in some of the parts, heres a screenshot of VCarve toolpaths:



As you can see, its a whole lot of drilling different sized holes followed by pocketing and profiling w/ a 1/8" downcut bit.

Just give it a go! worst thing that happens, you mess up a few parts, have to buy some more material, and you learn as you go.

regards,
Eric

Nice and thanks Derek for taking the time

awesome clock eabrust!

I have a xcarve 1000 and would love to try this, although for something different I might try cranking through it with the K40 laser cutter though. I'm going to use Balsa wood for my laser cutting - any suggestions on what would work and what wouldn't break after the stress of heat etc being so intricate?

Very well done Eric. That looks a great clock does it keep reasonable time ? I have built a clock by Brian Law and it hasn't ran for more than 5 seconds, it keeps stopping. I will need to figure out what's wrong
take care
Don W

sammie928s wrote:awesome clock eabrust!

I have a xcarve 1000 and would love to try this, although for something different I might try cranking through it with the K40 laser cutter though. I'm going to use Balsa wood for my laser cutting - any suggestions on what would work and what wouldn't break after the stress of heat etc being so intricate?

Hi Sammie, Not sure why I didn't get a notice there were replies on this thread.

My opinion is there is very few, if any parts that making out of Balsa will work for. Most of the pieces in this particular design are 1/2" ply, some of them purposefully doubled up.

The weight required to run this clock wound up being around 2.5 lbs or so. You don't really get a sense for the amount of forces on the parts till you are hanging it up on the wall.

The parts near the escapement/pendulum might work with balsa, as the load is significantly reduced at that end of the gear train, but the frame and the gears close to the weight need some beefiness.

regards
Eric