fixebr wrote:A_Camera wrote:None of the above is relevant. To start with, if you have bad wiring than THAT is a problem. If you don't know how to connect things and how to wire your gear then maybe it would be better to ask somebody to do it for you, or buy ready made equipment with warranty. If you add six more connections it does not mean that you have higher risk for bad wiring, at least not if you know what you are doing, and if you don't know then you should not fiddle with high voltage anyway.
The second thing is once again that I NEVER said you should use this as a switch to switch the motor on or off. There is no point in explaining to me how this motor is different from other motors, I know that, I am an electrical engineer from the start and know more than 90% of the people on this forum regarding electrical wiring, safety and so on. So instead of quoting text you don't understand, you should try to read AND understand what's been asked for by the OP, and what my answer was to him.
Another point is that I am NOT saying what people should or should not do, I only show how I did it, and tried to explain why. There are far to many amateurs out there who believe that reading Wikipedia (at best) is more than enough to learn everything about electricity... well, it's not enough. That's why some of us went to schools, colleges and universities, to LEARN about it.
Another thing is that my "switch" is not a switch as you seem to understand. It is a "safety switch", and is used to ISOLATE the current source from the equipment to provide safety, not to switch on or off under load. Of course, stupid people may use it that way, but that can't be helped.
Now it has become obvious that Google Translate has freed my words drastically.
I do not assume that you are using your switch to "turn on or off the spindle". I did not mean anything like that. I am not an idiot and perfectly understand how our spindles work, and in electronics, I understand it well enough to understand why my VFD can burn when problems with wiring to the spindle. I have more than 15 years of experience with a different kind of powerful technique and in microelectronics.
Let's try differently.
The advantages of your chuck between the VFD and the spindle: in an abnormal situation, it will not allow the spindle to rotate, since you essentially chose it from VFD.
The cons of your chipboard between the VFD and the spindle: it may not be approached for high-grade work and high-inductive load, it may not provide an ideal connection without a rattle of contacts, it directly violates the instructions of VFD manufacturers. In addition, there you need a switch on 3 phases always, even if your VFD is connected only to one phase of the power supply (and most of the fans are working with a VFD by 2.2 kilowatt connected to a single-phase network of 220/230 volts).
Pluses of the chub between the VFD and the power supply: it will de-energize the VFD and will ensure the absence of the spindle. At the same time, it will protect VFD from problems completely, as he is de-energized.
Minuses of the chub between the VFD and the power supply: it may not be convenient if the VFD is installed in the control cabinet at the distance from the machine.
Isn't it obvious that the second way is safer and corresponds to the specified manufacturer?
And about the brake resistor: this is a good idea if you use a massive tool or your motor rotates a massive spindle with a mandrel. But for the spindle 2.2 kilowatta - it seems to me that it is too unclear. It will also stop in 1.5 seconds with active braking of VFD (without causing it heating over the measure). If you have a spindle 4-5 kilowatt and above, you will have to set the braking time of 4-5 seconds.
Somethings never change.