by spumco » Thu Jul 23, 2020 5:15 am
There are additional, more expensive methods of reducing or eliminating backlash with rack & pinions, but those aren't applicable to the OP. But there is some hope for belt drives.
Assuming we define backlash as a certain amount of play in the drive system where the driven component is not firmly held in place - if the pulley can rotate some amount and the belt teeth are not firmly wedged between the pulley teeth, there is some slip when reversing direction. The pulley rotates and the belt stays put - you see this on circles when one axis reverses direction as CNCDrive described earlier.
Belt drives can also have 'lost' or undesirable motion even if there is no backlash. The belt can flex, the teeth can flex, and the belt acts like a spring under load. All of these increase what's called 'settling' time - the time it takes for the driven component to stabilize in a particular location. Even with no backlash the component (gantry and/or torch head in this case) may not be exactly where you intend it to be if the next move is started before the system settles down.
Extreme example: imagine trying to precisely position an object using a pair of opposing rubber bands on each axis. You can move it, but it'll take a while to stop bouncing around.
So, in my limited experience here's what I've found effective in reducing both backlash and lost motion in belt drives. In order of complexity and expense:
1. Check for loose pulleys on shafts. This is free, and it's common for a set screw to work its way out and the pulley is free to move a bit on the shaft. Common on low-end stepper drive systems with D-cut shafts and set-screw pulleys.
2. Check belt tension. Also free. Does not need to be so tight the motor and idler shafts are bent or the bearings are angry, but shouldn't be loose.
3. Change to a different belt profile. If you're using trapezoidal teeth belts there is a ton of backlash - relatively speaking. Switching to HTD (better), GT/GT2 (much better), ATL (much better), or some other belt profile designed for motion control and not just power transmission.
4. If you're using rubber belts with nylon reinforcement, change to steel reinforced urethane belts. These are much stiffer - less "bounce" under acceleration, stopping, high loads. Kevlar belts are stiffer and lighter, but I've read many reports of them not having a reasonable service life before the reinforcements start breaking down - especially on small diameter pulleys. No personal experience with kevlar, but given the price I'm disinclined to experiment with them.
5. Use a wider belt. All else being equal, a wider belt will be stiffer.
#3, 4, and 5 are very easy and fairly inexpensive to accomplish. Moving on to more complicated solutions...
6. Change to a different belt drive system. A stationary belt with a 'tractor' pulley will be stiffer than a moving belt for a given travel distance - it's shorter. The trade-off is that the drive motor and pulley(s) are now moving and contribute negatively to the system inertia. If you're not moving very fast then this won't matter much. If you want the plasma and head to whip around like a pick-n-place machine this drive system may not be ideal.
[My first plasma build used a 20mm urethane belt, HTD-5M profile, in a 'tractor' arrangement. Nema 23 steppers and a 3:1 belt reduction before the main drive belt. Fairly light gantry and it'll do better than 1000ipm with ferocious acceleration. Backlash is maybe a couple thousandths - less than perceptible on a plasma cutter. That table hit 100k pierces earlier this year with only one issue since it was built - a loose set screw.]
7. Consider using a Bell-Everman style belt drive system. You can find details of this online, but the basic premise is that there is a stationary belt bonded to a surface like a gear rack and a second belt which is facing it. The two belts are held in mesh by two idler pulleys keeping them together. The second belt loops up and over the motor (servo, stepper, whatever) between the two idlers. The huge benefit is that the effective belt length is only as long as the distance from one idler up and over the drive pulley to the other idler.
Backlash is minimized because the driving pulley has around 180 degrees of belt engagement - belt to pulley tooth gap is averaged over a longer arc length. And even though the preferred belt is a fairly high-backlash T5/T8 profile, tensioning the motor pulley causes the driving belt teeth to contact opposing flanks of the stationary belt. The only remaining slop is what little there is between the drive pulley and the driving belt. And instead of having a very long, very springy belt that bounces when you start or stop motion, you have an extremely short belt - only the tooth flex contributes to lost motion. And lengthening the system does not increase moving mass or reduce stiffness.
It's a quite clever system. Downside, of course, is that it'll take some pretty serious fiddling around to build a working system.
-R