My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

If you milled something cool and you want to show it to others post it here.

Re: My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

Postby A_Camera » Fri Dec 09, 2016 5:19 pm

Robertspark wrote:I've seen someone doing it with a laser with masking tape with etching too...

I use RS components designspark to do my schematic + pcb designs, don't know why but I struggle with eagle.


There is a steep "uphill" learning curve for Eagle, but once you are over the top it is great.

Robertspark wrote:really the stuff I'm sure most people do is just prototype one off's that don't justify made pcb's especially if you have a mill sat their idle for 90% of the time.


Yes, making one single PCB prototype or very low series there is no question about it that it is more efficient than chemical process. Besides, the results are normally nicer, more professional looking, if milled than if etched chemically at home. Industrial process is something else...
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Re: My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

Postby Robertspark » Fri Dec 09, 2016 8:24 pm

I was correct information this post / statement that I've seen someone (not you) doing PCBs with a laser and spray paint plus chemical dip, .... Still need to drill it, but it may offer better smt tracks

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Robertspark wrote:I've seen someone doing it with a laser with masking tape with etching too...
.
Rob

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Re: My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

Postby A_Camera » Sat Dec 10, 2016 10:29 am

Robertspark wrote:I was correct information this post / statement that I've seen someone (not you) doing PCBs with a laser and spray paint plus chemical dip, .... Still need to drill it, but it may offer better smt tracks

I don't think so. Not through that process. Those tracks in that link look pretty low quality and uneven. If you want higher quality than what you can mill you need to do it with photographic process. I can mill without problems track isolation of 0.1mm less than that is not necessary. Not even for SMD.
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Re: My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

Postby andrewbishop66 » Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:49 pm

Hi

Nice video impressed with the spindle can you tell me whether you went air cooled in the end or water cooled as I find myself with the same problem over a second machine im building

thanks Andrew
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Re: My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

Postby A_Camera » Tue Feb 07, 2017 2:39 pm

andrewbishop66 wrote:Hi

Nice video impressed with the spindle can you tell me whether you went air cooled in the end or water cooled as I find myself with the same problem over a second machine im building

thanks Andrew

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for your comment about the video.

I have decided to go for air cooled spindle and the reason is very simple. In my opinion water cooled is just a buzzword.

* I don't want to use any liquid where I am using my machine.
* All spindles, regardless if water or air cooled have the same minimum usable rpm.
* All spindles generate noise, and unless you just plan on milling air, the milling noise will be CONSIDERABLY higher than the spindle noise.
* Installation and maintenance is simpler.
* It allows me to easily remove the spindle and replace it with something else, like a 3D print head.
* Not need to worry about leaking gaskets, joints, pumps or broken pipes.
* Not need to worry about fungus or adding/handling chemicals to the water.
* A dust shoe is ALWAYS a must have, regardless of air or water cooled spindle, so dust is not an issue.

So, personally I see no advantages with a water cooled spindle for my needs. I don't use my machine H24/7, perhaps if I did I would have a different opinion, but as it is, and with the experience I have so far, no regrets at all, and if this one needs to be replaced I will replace it with a new air cooled one. The only difference would be that I'd probably go for a brand of some sort, perhaps one with active cooling, i.e. a fan which is driven with it's own power supply, not by the spindle shaft.
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Re: My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

Postby andrewbishop66 » Tue Feb 07, 2017 9:10 pm

Hi

Thanks for that I also wanted to be able to swop out the spindle for plasma and drag Knife. As the plasma table is the main reason but I hate the mess I make on my milling machine when I cut wood especially as it has oil based cutting coolant so you can imagine the mess with sawdust going gummy with the oil makes

I built a 3d printer a couple of years ago and have been really impressed with it I reckon it would be ideal for making camera mounts

going back to your PCB I was impressed with the even depth of cut you got when I tried a couple off years back I kept getting a bow in the board to much clamping pressure it didn't occur to me to stick it down on a base board so next time I need to give it a go going to try tape

Thanks for the help

Andrew
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Re: My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

Postby A_Camera » Wed Feb 08, 2017 10:06 am

andrewbishop66 wrote:Hi

Thanks for that I also wanted to be able to swop out the spindle for plasma and drag Knife. As the plasma table is the main reason but I hate the mess I make on my milling machine when I cut wood especially as it has oil based cutting coolant so you can imagine the mess with sawdust going gummy with the oil makes

I built a 3d printer a couple of years ago and have been really impressed with it I reckon it would be ideal for making camera mounts

going back to your PCB I was impressed with the even depth of cut you got when I tried a couple off years back I kept getting a bow in the board to much clamping pressure it didn't occur to me to stick it down on a base board so next time I need to give it a go going to try tape

Thanks for the help

Andrew

Hi
I didn't use any double sided tape because that makes the surface uneven and flexing, I just used simple masking tape, taping the edges only as you can see in the video. The bits I am using are not pulling up the PCB, so as long as the PCB is not warped the surface will be nice and even, and the tape will keep it fixed. I don't use any auto leveler macro but the table is surface milled, so the surface below is clean and nice. I think this is a better way than ignoring surfacing and hiding errors with auto leveler. OK, it is important also to use high quality PCB as well, and of course, the machine must be rigid and well built.
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Re: My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

Postby zymurgy42 » Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:54 pm

A_Camera wrote:* All spindles, regardless if water or air cooled have the same minimum usable rpm.


I can quite happily use my water cooled spindle to drill at 2K, it gets hotter, because I have increased the voltage frequency curve.

I thought an air cooled one needed a minimum of 6K to make sure there was enough airflow.

Gordon.
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Re: My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

Postby cncdrive » Thu Feb 09, 2017 12:43 am

We have both water and air cooled spindles installed in our machines from 800Watts to 3kWatts and both types have advantages and disadvantages.

The water cooled requires water pump and hoses and water tank with water which makes the installation harder and you have to take care to not get the water out of the hose into the machine, but it runs cool on lower speeds also and is really silent.
The air cooled spindle overheats faster especially on low speeds and is a bit more loud, but is easy to install.

In ovall I like both spindle types. :)
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Re: My first PCB using UC300ETH and UCCNC

Postby A_Camera » Thu Feb 09, 2017 6:13 am

zymurgy42 wrote:
A_Camera wrote:* All spindles, regardless if water or air cooled have the same minimum usable rpm.


I can quite happily use my water cooled spindle to drill at 2K, it gets hotter, because I have increased the voltage frequency curve.

I thought an air cooled one needed a minimum of 6K to make sure there was enough airflow.

Gordon.

But if you look at the specifications I found that all have the same 6000rpm as minimum rpm. I have aalso used mine much slover than that but that's another thing.
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