Rigid tapping- first real one!

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Re: Rigid tapping- first real one!

Postby Derek » Sat Aug 04, 2018 3:21 pm

Looking good.

One trick I learned was if you are tapping to the bottom of a hole do a test run before tapping to the full depth and film the Z DRO with a smart phone with slow motion. You can then see how much over travel the Z will have and then correct the Z depth in the code.
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Re: Rigid tapping- first real one!

Postby cncdrive » Sat Aug 04, 2018 4:58 pm

I think it is G33 rigid tapping what he is using. I'm thinking this because he asked a few things about the index signal and things like that, but maybe I'm wrong.

Terry, I think you are right that faster retract is not saving much time in many cases, because the spindle is a large induction motor with high inertia and so it can't accelerate up fast.
And if it accelerates up slower than the tap ends then there is no benefit, because then it has to slow down before doing the next tapping cycle and so it can even make the whole cycle longer than if it not changing speed for the retraction.
But if the spindle motor is not that large and if the thread is long then it could save time.
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Re: Rigid tapping- first real one!

Postby Battwell » Sat Aug 04, 2018 5:23 pm

i have servo spindle now - driven by step/direction
stops immediately as i found out writing macros using dospinstop instead of more gradual m5 ( so i added m5' s to my post processor so spindle didnt just slam to a stop). - maybe it was the original post that had m30 which shuts down all outputs- definately stopped the spindle dead! m5 added prior to m30 slows it with the set deceleration time. (vectric post for mach3- i always end up editing it)

spindle can accelerate to 3000 rpm in under a second :-) it doesnt like being stopped that fast - shows high bus voltage for a second.
i was using g84 cycle . just being cautious as i only had cheap drills and taps to play with . (good ones ordered) including some form taps.
we need the fast retract feature- as a further selling point... cant let haas be the only ones to do this !
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Re: Rigid tapping- first real one!

Postby cncdrive » Sat Aug 04, 2018 5:47 pm

I'm a bit confused now. So, you need the fast retract for the G33 rigid tapping code or for the G84 rigid peck cycle? OR both? :)
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Re: Rigid tapping- first real one!

Postby Battwell » Sat Aug 04, 2018 6:13 pm

I’ve only tried g84
Would be nice if it could be added to either really ( a J number maybe)

I havnt seen it on any of the hobby controls terry- in the gcode so you don’t have to mess about.
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Re: Rigid tapping- first real one!

Postby Battwell » Sun Aug 05, 2018 1:52 pm

were not talking about most hobby controllers-
we are talking about uccnc that is the new leader by a long way!
it can do this easily - proven by how well it does most things so far. -like everything that the developers have put their interest into.

most machinists dont want to have to mess around writing subs etc- i used to do it because i had to... but rarely need to these days after converting controls to modern thinking instead of the dinasours they once were!
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Re: Rigid tapping- first real one!

Postby cncdrive » Sun Aug 05, 2018 2:04 pm

Terry, Yes, you are right, but in my opinion it is hard to understand and calculate things with the G84 g-code format which is used to in old controls.
I know the original format is simple for those who are used to code for a long time, but not for the newbies.
So, we thought to simplify it a bit. Programming the pitch is simler for the new user. But maybe later we will implement the old format too.
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Re: Rigid tapping- first real one!

Postby Battwell » Fri Aug 10, 2018 12:21 am

tested with new tooling tonight- correct drill bits and new spiral taps.
much faster.
then bit the bullet and tried form tapping- 20mm full depth in 1 go. - it worked.!
the thread looks nicer done with a form tap!
i also have coolant set up too- so not so scary as just dipping in oil

https://youtu.be/c0xuEY7EHbQ
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Re: Rigid tapping- first real one!

Postby Robertspark » Fri Aug 10, 2018 4:03 am

Nice + impressed
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Re: Rigid tapping- first real one!

Postby spumco » Fri Aug 10, 2018 5:25 am

Outstanding!

Don't be afraid to have your coolant spraying right on the form tap (when you're not making videos). While they don't make chips, there is can be some 'dusty' buildup that tends to stick to the tap. This will probably never wreck a hole, but enough of it may cause slightly oversized threads.

If I'm tapping aluminum I flood it with fairly rich coolant. If I'm tapping mild steel, I'll use cutting oil by dribbling some in the holes and tap and then blow off the tap with an air gun every few holes.

Form taps like a conical entry. Either the pointed tip of the tap, or a generous chamfer. I've had success grinding the point of the tap down to get good threads closer to the bottom of a blind hole as long as I put a .020" or greater chamfer on the hole top.

Another tip I got from my 'real' machinist mentor: raise the feed plane an inch (or more) above the hole top instead of trying to save a few seconds by starting the tap closer. This gives a bit more time for the spindle to get up to speed, more clearance for chips, and more clearance for a blowgun to clear off the tap. Also gives slightly more time to catch a broken tap before it tries to wipe out the next hole.

Now speed that thing up to 1000RPM and make yourself a threaded fixture plate with a ton of holes!
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